Vermont life. Vol. 66, Iss. 4

Periodicals

easy camels hump hike & apres, p. 60 | łalking jazz

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Brewing the best tasting handcrafted aleś for
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1 ■■■

:

PAGE 1 Gander and ducks I Essex John Churchman

PAGE 2-3 Green Mountain farmland I Cambridge Susan Cole Kelly

PAGE 4 Morning fog I Groton Alan Lambert

Pileated woodpeckers I Belvidere Gtistav W. Yerderber
Wild columbine 1 Fletcher Gustav W. Verderber
Marginal fern, Lakę Bomoseen I Fair Haven Jim Deshler
PAGE 5 Wild Shepherd Farm I Aihens Caleb Kenna
PAGE 6 Oakledge Park I Burlington Andy Gimino
PAGE 7 Ricker Pond I Groton Andy Gimino

vermontlifc.com

s u m m c r 2012

• 7

With time running out, old and new
intertwine to save Barber Farm

Big Problem

We all cherish Vermonts classic mansions.
But would you want to inherit one,
and keep it going?

Sacred Cows

Why is raw milk so contentious?

Paths of Enlightenment

In Vermont, all roads lead to trails

First Ascent

life

Daria Bishop captures
the beauty of 2ist'Century farm life
at Barber Farm.

Learn where traiF
building firm Timber and Stone has
left its almost undetectable mark.

Before you make reservations,
check out sample menus from the
restaurants featured in Out to Eat.

Never hiked Camels Fiumpf
Heres your guide to the easy way up
and great places to refuel and relax
after you come down.

Couci Mark Fascking and his daughter,
Hazel, of Jericho Scttlers’ Farm,
Daria Bishop

This • Camels Hump, Caleb Kenna

8

• Ycrmont li fe

vermontlifc.com

20

departments
First Impressions
Inside VL

Update
The Arts

Selections from the arts scene,
including the Weston Playhouse,
the Burlington Discover Jazz Festival
and yoga in the mountains

Free Time

With recreation and refinement,
Manchester shines in summertime

Out to Eat

Restaurants to enjoy in Burlington,
Jeffersonville, North Troy, Rutland
and Vergennes

Cooking in Season

Off the cob and morę, corn is
one of summers sweetest pleasures

One in 626,431

Every Vermonter has a story,
including Leslie Schreiber

Vermont Observed

Summer Yisitors

vcrmontlifc.com

summer 2012

9

inside VL

A Roof Over
Our Memories

M y mother passed away a year
ago after a decade spent succumb-
ing to the ravages of Parkinsons disease.
She died in the comfort of her own home
— as my father had
eight years before
after a comparably
merciful, short fight
against cancer — sur-
rounded by family.

Now, these many
months later, my six
siblings and I are left
debating what to do
with the Hegarty
homestead, a dwelling
rich in vivid memo¬
ries for us all.

From one end of the house to the
1 other, backyard to front, roof to basement,

< the walls reverberate with memories of

cc

2 boisterous, humor-filled family gatherings,
o little snapshots of time over decades:

The sunken living room used only at
Christmas, adorned, year after year, by a
laughably large backyard-grown tree. The
70s-style kitchen with its old oak table
and benches, not chairs, morę suitable for
squeezing in the one or two extra people
who inevitably showed up for dinner (at
6:oo, dont be late). The well-worn den
where every Sunday afternoon for the past
20 years my siblings gathered with their
ever-growing families to spend time with
my parents and each other — willfully
ignoring the leaky ceiling that persisted
despite my brothers' repeated attempts to
repair it.

Even the driveway evokes memories —
its where I accidentally drove a tractor
through the garage door at age 13, and
where I nervously ran along and pushed
my own kids off for their first wobbly bike
rides 20-odd years later.

But my brothers and sisters and I all

have our own homes, our own families
and pursuits, some in different towns or
difFerent States. Whats morę, nonę of us
can afford to live in my parents' house,
even if we wanted to. So what to doi 5

It is not an uncommon dilemma.

In Vermont, the question often takes
on particular urgency as heirs question
whether to keep the land of a family
farm open or subdivide the property for
greater profit. A Jericho family madę
just such a choice (“Digging In," page 36)
and ultimately came up with a solution
that called upon an unconventional
collaboration between a local farm, land
trust organizations, town residents and
former visitors that resulted in bringing
Barber Farm back to life, just as its
95-year-old matriarch always wanted.

Even in our downtowns, the decision
can be complicated for those inheriting
huge homes built during the mid-ięth
century. Peggy Shinn eloquently ponders
the fate of a fifth-generation family home
in Cabot that she loves, but doesnt really
want to inherit ("Big Problem," page 42).
If her house follows the precedent set by
many similarly sized Vermont homes of
that era, it will likely next be a lawyer s
or dentists ofhce.

What will happen with my own
family home and the surrounding property
remains unclear. Will it be sold to one
family, or the property divided into lotsi 5
Will it be converted from a home into a
business? An assisted-living facility has
already shown some interest, as the house
had been madę handicapped-accessible for
my mother.

In the meantime, my brothers, sisters
and our families have chosen to devote
ourselves to "work weekends" in which
we have collectively tackled the leaks
(hopefully for good this time), painted
the walls, fixed the cabinets, spruced up
the outside and generally madę it suitable
for sale. Even in its departure, the house
brings us together.

/

yermont fl ra

M AG A ZIN E

is published quarterly by the State of Vermont
SlJMMER 2012 VoLUMeLXVI NuMBER 4

Peter Shumlin ■ Govcrnor

Lawrence Miller ■ Secrctary, Agency of Commerce
and Community Development

Megan M. Smith ■ Commissioncr,
Department of Tourism & Marketing

Steve Cook ■ Depury Commissioner,
Department ol Tourism & Marketing

Publisher ■ Dave Hakins
Editor ■ Mary Hegarty Nowlan
Managing Editor ■ Bill Anderson
Art Director ■ Susan McClellan
Production Manager ■ D.J. Goodman
Production Editor ■ Judy Thurlow
Special Projects Editor ■ Sky Barsch
Business Manager ■ Julie George
Business Managers Assistant ■ Tammy Duprey
Shipping Manager ■ Joe Rossi

Food Editor ■ Melissa Pasanen
Website Editor ■ Shelly Thayer

Vermont Life Advisory Board:

Pennie Beach, John Boutin, Paul Bruhn, Jack Crowl,
Brian Harwood, Frań Stoddard, Karheran L. Thayer

Editor Emeritus ■ Tom Slayton
Editorial and Business Offices: (802) 828-3241

Director of Advertising,

Partnerships and Events ■ Dave Hakins
Tel. (802) 828-1680

E-mail: dave.hakins@vermontlife.com

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Vcrmont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is published quarterly
in Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter.

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IO • vermont life

datę

“Maybe

Someday”

1 Ve only been reading Vermont
Life regularly for less than a
decade, but I have always enjoyed the
time spent with it. When I moved
away from New England and was no
longer able to day-trip to Vermont, it
became, as it is for so many readers,
an emotional tether to a special
place that has given me memorable
experiences sińce my childhood.

As I have migrated into my fifth
decade, however, and have become
morę aware of my own interests, values,
longings and desires, I have looked
from afar to Vermont as a “maybe
someday” home, where I might satisfy
morę of these than does my current
community. The new Vermont Life
excites me because it ofFers a elear-
glass window on a forward-thinking
State, fuli of concerned, thoughtful
people. The magazine is still visually
stunning, but now it seems to speak to
people who care about the lives lived
within the walls of those beautiful old
buildings and about those who travel
those winding country lanes with
purpose, not just with Polaroids.

Christian M. Clough,
Takoma Park, Md.

Send comments
by e-mail to

edi to rs@vtlife.com

Mail letters to
Vermont Life
One National Life Drive
6th Floor

Montpelier, VT 05620

Please include name and
place of residcnce in correspondence

M c KERNON

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vermontlife.com

summer 2012

• II

The fl r t s

By Bill Anderson

Speaking
of Jazz

HATTING WHILE

the artist performs?
Egregious. But a confab
before the concert, with
the star right there to take
ąuestions? No w were talking.
One of the delights of the
Burlington Discover Jazz
Festival is its "meet-the-
artist" series, the remarkably
intimate and informal
discussions, usually held
at 5:30 p.m. in the artsy
confines of FlynnSpace.
Grammy-winning jazz critic
Bob Blumenthal hosts the
talk-show^style format,
interviewing the musicians
and fieiding audience
inquiries. This year, some
of the headliners scheduled
at “meet-the-artist" sessions,
which are free and open to
the public, include Donny
McCaslin (pictured),

Dianne Reeves, Lee Konitz
and Christian McBride.

For morę on the festival
(June 1-10), which also
includes performers such as
Bonnie Raitt, Jimmy ClifF,
Vijay Iyer and morę, visit
www^discoyerjazz.com.

12

vermont life

*

' W

m

v e rm o n 11 i f e. c

OPEN STUDIO
WEEKEND

Statewide
May 26-27

NE OF THE JEWELS

of the Vermont arts
scene, Open Studio Weekend
offers the chance to see
dozens of Vermont artisans
practicing their craft in their
real workspaces. This year
marks the 20th anniversary
of the event, which thrives as
the perfect excuse to ramble
around Vermont and revel in
its ceaselessly creative character.
Maps widely available, or visit
www.vermontcrafts.com.

LEFT Donny McCaslin
RIGHT Michael Franłi
BELOW Open Studio artist
Debora Coombs

MICHAEL FRANTI
Sc SPEARHEAD

ESSEX JUNCTION

Midway Lawn

AT CHAMPLAIN

Valley Expo

JuNE 15

s Michael Franti

really 45 years old? It
hardly seems possible, but
there it is: Born in Oakland
in 1967, he emerged in the
late '8os and has been leading
Spearhead sińce 1994- A rare
combination of talents, Franti
has succeeded, according to
the allmusic guide/through
his use of his own raw power
— charisma, sex appeal and
sense of social justice — and
he carries out in his musie a
community-generated pas-
sion in much the same way as

Gil Scott-Heron or Marvin
Gaye.” Franti s soulhil gumbo
pulls in a wide rangę of influ-
ences, from rap to jazz, but
his popularity only seems to
grow, perhaps because, as he
told Rolling Stone magazine
recently, “the way people collect
musie through the Internet
has broadened their taste
After a summer tour that
stops in Vermont, Franti plans
to release a new studio album
with Spearhead this fali. www.
highergroundmusiacom.

■ Schedules subject to change.

■ Other events available at
www.vermontvacation.com.

■ To sign up for our free
monthly e-newsletter
that contains updated
entertainment suggestions,
visit vcrmontlife.com.

summer 2012

• 13

vermontlifc.com

RIGHT Vintage sci-fi,
parł of "Time Machines"
BELOW Shakłi Sunfire

WANDERLUST

VERMONT

Bondville

Stratton Mountain
Ski Resort
June 21-24

T apping into what it
calls “the surging cultural
importance of a conscious
lifestyle," Wanderlust Vermont
returns to Stratton for a
second year. The idea for the
festival was hatched by a New
York couple — he a musie-
industry honcho, she a yoga-
studio owner — who saw the
possibilities of a Bonnaroo-

kids’ programs, organie food,
lectures, art, performers
such as hoop dancer Shakti
Sunfire and reggae star Ziggy
Marley, and DJs spinning after
midnight. For a certain type,
its utopia, http://stratton*
wanderlustfestivaLcorm

WOODSTOCK
DIGITAL MEDIA
FESTIVAL

WOODSTOCK

June 22-23

A RELATIVELY NEW
event in Vermont —
it began last year — the

style event enriched by the
subculture of yoga. Musie
and yoga have been gradually
drawing closer in recent years,
with celebrity instructors
releasing mix CDs of ambient
electronica, so Wanderlust
takes it to the ultimate level
with a multiday immersion
that offers yoga in a mountain
setting, meditation hikes,

Woodstock Digital Media
Festival leans heavily on
education and networking
opportunities but boasts a
strong arts component. An
exhibition at Artistree Gallery
gets the festival rolling on
opening night, and a panel
is scheduled the next day on
“Issues in Digital Media Art."
Participants in the festival

include Annie Correal of the
Online storytelling platform
Cowbird, and Dan Archer, a
“comics journalist" who, the
festival says, was the first
such artist to be awarded the
John S. Knight Fellowship
for Professional Journalists at
Stanford University. Various
locations around Woodstock.
Most content free; paywall
(ticket reąuired) at the
Saturday night soiree.
www.woodstockdigitahcom.

SHELBURNE

MUSEUM

Shelburne
Through Oct, 28

R enowned for its sturdy
collections of premodern
Americana, the Shelburne
Museum also has a cheeky
streak that admires a good
Flash Gordon puzzle as much
as a Colonial-era quilt. Theres
always room for pop culture,
in other words, and this year
the new exhibit that puts the
ephemeral on a pedestal is

called"Time Machines: Robots,
Rockets and Steampunk."

The idea is to look back to the
golden age of sci-fi, roughly
the '30S through the 50S, when
"travel into space happened
only within the realm of the
imagination.” Steampunk, an
aesthetic trend inspired by the
sci-fi visions ofjules Verne,
began in the '8os as cult fantasy
literaturę and then dispersed
into art, fashion, set design and
other hipster redoubts.

In a Vermont vein, the
museums other new pop-cult
offering is"Snow Mobiles:
Sleighs to Sleds," focusing on
the progression of motorized
snów travel. Many of the
vintage vehicles are on loan
from members of the Vermont
Association of Snów Travelers,
and the machines hark back
to the beginning, when
snowmobiles were conceived of
as workhorses rather than the
recreational and racing steeds
they have largely become.

There are morę new
goings-on for 2012, and then

14

vermont life

vermontlife.com

PHOTOS: LI PT. KAPKI KURCUN; AROVK. COURTESY SHELBURNE MUSEUM

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For locations, visit liquorcontrol.vermont.gov or cali 1-800-642-3134.
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

For information about Vermont distillers visit distilledvermont.org

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DEPARTMENT OF LIQUOR CONTROL
liquorcontrol.vermont.gov

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16

there is the museum itself — 39
buildings on 45 beautiful acres, an
eccentric wonderland that has to be
experienced to be believed. As Edward
Rothstein wrote last year in the New
York Times: “Each building incubates
another set of obsessions. The effect is
unrelenting, lovely, perverse. I know of
no other museum like the Shelburne.
It doesnt tell you what to think; it
doesnt present a systematic survey.

It simply shows you things. And you
gasp, again and again, because you are
never allowed to settle into familiar
expectations."

"Time Machines” opens June 16.

For other exhibitions, events and
admission information, visit www,
shelburnemuseum.org.

WESTON PLAYHOUSE

Weston

2012 Season

HEN TROPICAL STORM

Irene struck on Aug. 28, the
Weston Playhouse was hit hard: an
estimated eight feet of water roared
into the basement, the orchestra pit
was flooded and damage totaled about
$500,000. The next day, mirroring
events across the State, volunteers
emerged en masse, without being asked,
to begin the cleanup. By September,
some of the theaters friends in New
York put together a highly successful
benefit concert in Manhattan, and
the playhouse turned the corner in a
remarkable recovery. On June 26, the
esteemed summer theater opens its
76th season with “The Hound of the
Baskervilles,” one of seven productions
this season. Resident producing
director Steve Stettler, reflecting in
the Burlington Free Press, called the
generous support for the Weston
“evidence of the sense of community, the
appreciation of art as a ąuality of life
and the can-do’ individualism that
we love about this State.”
www.westonpIayhouse.org.

v e r m o n t life

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18

Quick Takes

■ Folk-pop arrist Sarah McLachlan,
a multiple Grammy Award winner,
performs with the Vermont
Symphony Orchestra, June 24,
at the Shelbume Museum. www.
highergroundmusic.com.

Sarah McLachlan

■ Ule Bennington Museum opens
“Rockwell Kents‘Egypt’: Shadow
and Light in Vermont” The exhibit
focuses on the painter s work done
between 1919 and 1925 on a property
in Arlington he called"Egypt.”June 9-
Oct. 30. www.benningtonmuseum.org.

■ Artisans and farmers join forces
throughout the Champlain
Islands for the Open Farm and
Studio Tour, July 14—15. www.
openfarmandstudio.com.

The Valley Stage Musie Festival
has quietly built a following in
Huntington. This will be the seventh
year for the event, which offers roots
musie, most of it during the daytime,
in a beautiful natural setting. Aug. 4.
www.valleystage.net.

■ Art, food, farms, forestry and
Vermont culture in generał
intermingle at the inaugural
Celebrate Vermont Festival,
running Aug. 23-26 in Stowe.
www.celebratevermontfestival.com.

■ Big-name musie stars are part of the
package at the Lakę Champlain
Maritime Festival, Aug. 9-12, in
Burlington; the Champlain Valley
Fair, Aug. 25-Sept. 3, in Essex

• yermont life

vermontlife.com

Junction; and the Vermont State
Fair, Aug. 31-Sept. 9, in Rutland.

Visit their websites as announcements
are madę through the summer.

■ Eccentric geelorockers Cake play
June 16 at the Midway Lawn at
Champlain Valley Expo in Essex
Junction. Critical darlings Wilco
play the same venue July 29, with
Lee Ranaldo of Sonic Youth
opening with his side project band.
www.highergroundmusic.com.

■ Emerging country artist Josh
Thompson keeps the outlaw/honlcy-
tonk tradition alive, July 6, at the Higher

Josh Thompson

Ground Ballroom in South Burlington.
www.highergroundmusic.com.

■ “Newport: An Imaged Perspective”
brings together vintage postcards
and photos along with new works
by area artists celebrating the
Northeast Kingdom community
and Lakę Memphremagog area.

July 6-Aug. 31, MAC Center

for the Arts, Newport, www.
memphremagogartscollaborative.com.

■ Melodie singer-songwriter David
Cray, who madę a global splash with
his 1999 album"White Ladder,” plays
July 7 at the Shelburne Museum.
www.highergroundmusic.com.

■ The Southern Vermont Arts Center
in Manchester hosts an evening of
the blues, featuring performances
by legendary harp player James
Cotton as well as Duke Robillard,
coTounder of Roomful of Blues. The
musie is part of the Blues and Brews
Festival, July 14. www.svac.org.

EXPERIENCE WORLD CLASS THEATRE IN THE HEART OF YERMONT

^ 4 westonplayhouse.org 3

2012 SEASON: The Hound of the Baskervilles • Ella • Fiddler on the Roof
Pregnancy Pact • Mary's Wedding • Bad Dates • You're a Good Man, Chariie Brown

WESTON PLAYHOUSE THEATRE COMPANY, WESTON, YERMONT

V E R M O N T

SYMPHONY

ORCHESTRA

JAIMELAREDO
Musie Director

ENRICHING LIVES THROUGH MUSIC

WWW.VSO.ORG

n 2012i!j “ nK (—r ..

banamer J-eytiualTOUR

Be happy! The VSO presents an evening of outdoor musical smiles.

Bank

Sugarbush Resort, Warren

Jay Peak Resort, Jay

Mountain Top Inn, Chittenden

Hildene Meadowlands, Manchester

Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center, Grafton

Shelburne Farms, Shelburne

Suicide Six Ski Area, South Pomfret

Three Stallion Inn, Randolph

Trapp Family Lodge Concert Meadow, Stowe

For morę information, visit www.vso.org or cali (800) VSO-9293. ext. lO.

vcrmontlifc.com

summer 2012

• 19

Joy Lynn Matthews-Jacobs in Ain't Misbehavin' Photo: Hubert Schriebl

free time in ...

Manche

By Peggy Shinn
Photographed by

v

Jim Westphalen

I N THE LATE I 9 TH CE NT U RY,

when visitors rode in carriages from
the train station in Manchester
Depot to the Equinox House in
Manchester Village, they checked in
at the white-columned Colonial hotel
and were then weighed — yes, weighed
— on a lovely wood and brass, upright
physicians^type scalę.

The goal at this health-conscious
hotel was to help guests gain weight.
Served four meals each day, plus tea and
gingerbread, most were likely loosening
their belts — and corsets — by the time
they checked out.

The four-meabper-day regimen has
long passed from The Equinox, now
a luxury resort. And the list of activities
on the grounds and in the surrounding
community — from falconry to fly-
fishing — will help keep off the pounds.

Tucked beneath 3,848'foot
Equinox Mountain, the highest peak
in the Taconic Rangę, Manchester was
chartered in 1761 and grew as a farming
and lumber town, with a sawmill and
other industry developing along the
Battenkill River in Manchester Center.
Then, in the mid'i8oos, as trains began
arriving at Manchester Depot, about a
half-mile east of the Center, city dwellers
discovered that Manchester was a
wonderful place to escape the summer
heat. The community s reputation as a

20 • vermont life

TRADITION OF HOSPITALITY:

A venerable resort town,
Manchester is known for
designer outlets but also
offers outdoor activities and
refined pursuits.

TOP, LEFT High-speed thrills
at Bromley Mountain Resort
RIGHT Gaining elevation on
Bromley's climbing wali
MIDDLE Dusk on the patio at
the Equinox Resort and Spa
BOTTOM, LEFT Gallery space
at the Southern Vermont Arts
Center RIGHT Retail legend
Orvis offers fly-fishing classes
on the Battenkill River.

resort was solidified in 1864 when Mrs.
Abraham Lincoln and her two sons
vacationed in Manchester Village, the
picturesque residential area near The
Equinox. In 1905, Robert Todd Lincoln,
eldest son of the president (and the only
child to survive to adulthood), built a
Georgian Revival mansion on a blufFjust
south of Manchester Village. He named
it Hildene.

Today, the Manchester area offers
morę than ambitious visitors can do in
a week, let alone a weekend. One of the
main draws is shopping in Manchester
Center — home to morę than 30
designer outlets — but with Equinox
Mountain to the west and the Green
Mountain National Forest rising in the
east, the outdoors beckons.

Hiking trails abound around
Manchester. Prospect Rock, across the
valley from Equinox Mountain, is a
short hike to a stellar valley view. The
Equinox Preserve, behind the historie
hotel, is open to the public and features
a relatively flat trail that loops around
Equinox Pond.

The intrepid can hike to the top of
Equinox on a trail that provides little rest.

Continued on page 24

^fcbennington

potters

324 County Street, Bennington, Vermont
800.205.8033 | benningtonpotters.com

sum mer 2012

• 21

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AUGUST 23 • 24 • 25 • 26

STOWE, YERMONT

photp by Jonathan Hart

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Continuedfrom page ii

However, the easiest way to Equinoxs
summit is via Skyline Drive, a 5.2-mile
toll road. Completed in 1947, Skyline
Drive was built by Union Carbide
chemist Joseph George Davidson and
still claims to be the longest, privately
owned, paved toll road in the nation. As
the road nears the summit, look for the
Carthusian Monastery in a remote valley
to the west. It was built on land donated
to the monks by Davidson.

Bicycles are only allowed on Skyline
Drive during the annual Climb for
Lyme, usually held the first weekend in
August, but cycling on the roads around
Manchester is a popular activity. A
terrific i8-mile, out-and-back ride starts
on River Road in Manchester Village
and winds along the Battenkill River
to just after the covered bridge in East
Arlington. Along the way, riders will see
anglers, canoeists and kayakers enjoying
the Battenkill s quiet waters.

Outside Manchester, Bromley
Mountain Resort is a favorite with kids in
summer. The ski area says it was the first
in North America to install a three-track
Alpine Slide — slow, medium, fast —
and the slide is still one of the longest in
the world. A newer attraction is the Sun
Mountain Flyer, a half-mile zip linę that
really does zip. Terrifying and exhilarating,
it reaches speeds of up to 50 mph.

Manchester also ofFers morę refined
pursuits. The Village is home to the
Southern Vermont Arts Center, started
in the 1920S by local artists to exhibit
their paintings and sculpture. Today,
the arts center is located at the end
of a sculpture-lined sweeping drive
on a former country estate. Works by
Vermont artists are displayed in the
Wilson Museum (Sabra Field was
featured in 2011), and morę art is on
view in the Yester House galleries. The
Arkell Pavilion for performing arts was
restored in 2000 and each year hosts the
Manchester Musie Festival in July and
August. The arts center also has a smali
cafe, open for lunch and dinner.

2 z|. • vermont life

vermontlife.com

• • •

manchester

South of Manchester, Robert
Todd Lincolns stately mansion,

Hildene, is open for tours of both
the home and gardens (but cali first, as
it is a popular wedding spot). Hildenes
network of walking trails is ideał
for contemplative strolls.

The puli of shopping is strong,
of course, and Manchester s famous
outlet choices are enhanced by
independents. The Northshire Bookstore
is a Manchester institution, with an
expansive childrens department. Other
locally owned shops include Long Ago
Sc Far Away (Native American art
and jewelry), Manchester Sports Sc
Clothing Co. (casual wear), the Mountain
Goat (outdoor clothing and gear) and
Manchester Footwear (large selection
of mostly casual shoes and boots).

After all this activity, the best place
to head at day s end is The Spa at
Equinox, a fulbservice spa that opened
in 2003. The relaxation room alone is
worth a visit. With a fieldstone fireplace,
beadboard wainscoting and overstufFed
couches, the room evokes a quiet country
estate. And in the corner sits an antique
wood and brass upright scalę, the very
one used to monitor guests weight gain
morę than 100 years ago.

Now, fortunately, it is just for show.

If you go ...

LODGING AND
DINING

M anchester has many lodging
options, from luxury resort to
cozy B&B. The Equinox, a 195-room
historie hotel, underwent a $20 million
renovation and redesign in 2008. Rooms
are spacious, and the decor is designed to
suit discriminating travelers.

The Reluctant Panther, in
Manchester Village near The Equinox,
is an intimate 20-room inn that is
considered one of the most romantic
getaways in New England.

The Wilburton Inn is a Yictorian

YERMONT 1^,. Rksł m5T Bynk

Sothebys

Enjoy world-class stage productions, concerts, art and photography
cxhibitions and play readings at venues throughout the region.

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WESTONPLAYHOUSE.ORG

Southern vermont arts center

SVAC.ORG

Manchester Musie Festival

MMFVT.ORG

Get your Hills Alive! Passport today!
Stay in our inns. saniple delicious foods
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v c r m o n 11 i f c . c o m

summer 2012

25

This is what a
Summer Vacation at
Smuggs feels like.

America's Family Resort"

Where Family Fun is Guaranteed!

Get back to basics, set your
own pace, reconnect, and
have morę fun than you can
imagine. With award-winning
children’s programs for ages
6 weeks to 17 years, pools
and waterslides, outdoor
adventures including zip linę
canopy tours, mountainside
condo lodging, and plenty
of choices for the whole
family... opportunities for
rediscovering life’s simple
pleasures are endless at
Smugglers’ Notch Vermont.

SMUGGLERS' NOTCH

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1.800.451.8752 // smuggs.com/vl

ANDSHAPES \

Twenty years of shaping
Vermonts residential &
commercial landscape with
design & installations.

landscape design & installation

brick mansion that sits on a bluff just
south of Manchester Village and offers
the same sweeping views as Hildene.

The sculpture on display around the
20-acre property symbolizes conflict and
resolution — as well as the innkeepers’
commitment to the arts.

For a budget motel, try The Aspen
at Manchester. Family-owned for
morę than 30 years, the Aspens rooms
reflect country charm, and the motel sits
on nine acres.

For fine dining, MistraTs at Toll
Gate, tucked into a wooded glen ofF
Routes 11/30 about five miles east of
Manchester, is considered one of the
best restaurants in Southern Vermont.
The seafood on the French-influenced
menu is recommended. Ask for a table
overlooking Bromley Brook.

The Chantecleer, in a
renovated dairy barn four miles north
of Manchester Center on Route 7 A
in East Dorset, is also known for its
sophisticated Continental menu and
romantic setting.

The Chop House at the Equinox
and The Reluctant Panther restaurant
are also acclaimed.

For lighter farę, try Cilantro for
delicious made-to-order burritos, on
Main Street in Manchester Center.

The Spiral Press Cafe makes
gourmet sandwiches, cookies and other
baked goods, plus good cofFee, and is
attached to the Northshire Bookstore.

Up for Breakfast, also on Main
Street, is a Manchester institution. The
pancakes and venison sausage are menu
favorites. Arrive early on weekends.

CULTURE

S outhern Vermont Arts

Center, on West Road, is
open Tuesday-Saturday, all year,

10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sundays, May-
December, noon-5 p.m. Admission
is free but donations are welcome.

Hildene, Robert Todd Lincolns
home, is open daily from 9:30 a.m.-4:30

2Ó

vermont life

vermontlife.com

p.m. Guided tours are offered summer
days at noon.

OUTDOOR
RECRE ATION

F or hiking maps, stop at the
Green Mountain National
Forest's Manchester Ranger
Station on Routes 11/30 about two
miles east ot Manchester Center.

Battenkill Sports, also on Routes
11/30 east of town, is open daily and has
bike rentals and maps.

Skyline Drive starts on Route
7 A in Sunderland, south ot Manchester
Village, and provides panoramie views
as it wends its way to the summit of
Equinox Mountain.

BattenKill Canoe Ltd. in
Arlington rents canoes and kayaks tor
use on the Battenkill River.

Orvis, which has had a retail storę
in Manchester sińce 1856, also runs a
Fly-Fishing School. A customer tavorite,
the two-day school takes anglers to the
Battenkill River to fish tor brown and
rainbow trout.

Bromley Mountain Resort

is open daily from mid-June through
Labot* Day, and weekends only during
the shoulder seasons. Attractions
include the three-track Alpine Slide,

Sun Mountain Flyer, water slide, mini
golf, scenie chairlift rides, mini zip
linę and Trampolinę Thing. A new
aerial adventure park was also under
construction and set to open injuly.

At The Equinox, the tour most
popular activities are golt, archery, the
Land Rover Experience Driving School
and the British School ot Falconry. The
Equinox’s archery program teaches guests
how to use recurve bows and to shoot
hrst at targets, then on a field course. The
driving school sits on 80 acres and teaches
drivers techniques on ascending and
descending, as well as managing side tilts
and rocky terrain. The falconry school says
it is the first in the nation to ofter hands-
on lessons with trained birds ot prey. #

#59. Single kayak to Button Bay

We have over 126 ways to create new traditions at
Basin Harbor. Give your tamily the gift of vacation
memories that will last a lifetime.

BASIN HARBORCLUB

On Lakc Champlain,Vcnnont
ejt. 1886

WWW.BASINHARBOR.COM • INFO@BASlNHARBOR.COM - 800 . 622.4000

SIMON PEARCE

Open daily

1760 Quechee Main Street
Quechee, Vermont
802 2951470

vcrmontlife.co m

summer 2012

• 27

The

uechee

Club

Ownership has
its privileges.

Every home or homesite purchase in the Ouechee Lakes commu-
nity automatically confers membership to the exclusive Ouechee
Club. It's the perfect place to meet, relax, have a good time, and
stay in shape.

Along with two 18 -hole championship golf courses designed by
renowned architect Geoffrey Cornish, The Ouechee Club provides
a number of activities ; privileges # amenities and dining options for
its members and their guests.

Ouechee Lakes Landowners # Association

3268 Ouechee Main Street
PO Box 1301

Ouechee, Vermont 05059

Ouintessential
Quechee / Vermont
Stay a week...or a lifetime

quecheeclub.com •Telephone: 802.295.9356

• Downhill ski area with quad chairlift and ski school.

• 12 tennis courts (8 Har-tru and 4 all-weather) and
squash court.

• Indoor and Outdoor Swimming Pools

• Health Club with state-of-the-art cardiovascular
exercise equipment

• Cross-country trailsfor skiing, biking, hiking
and snowshoeing.

• Lakę Pinneo with beachfront, lifeguards,
snack shack, volleyball and outdoor grills.

• Artisanal farm dining in The Grille Room and
seasonal al fresco Deck Dining.

• Youth andTeen Camps available during the summer
and school vacations.

• Organized year-round social activities for all ages,
including dances, themed parties, and off-property
excursions.

28

Where Naturę Takes Its Course

1 Clubhouse Rd
Fairlee, VT 05045
(800)423-1211
www.lakemoreyresort.com

MEMBERSHIPS

starting at $499

mountsnow.

GOLF CLUB

OUNTAIN GOLF AT ITS FINEST

experience golf in the Green Mountains

Adult Greens Fees $49Midweek $563pmTwilight $75 Weekend
Jr/Sr Greens Fees $39 Midweek $363pmTwilight $75 Weekend

prices include cart & tax

Book your tee times online or
cali the Pro Shop for resen/ations

PRO SHOP 802.464.4254
MOUNTSNOW.COM/GOLF

800.362.4747 www.Equinoxresort.com

*$169 rato is valid mid week ihrough 5/25. Ratę is bascd on single occupancy at the Inns at Kquinox.

79 raU . j s yalid midweek now ihrough 06/15. 06/16-10/13 rates start fronrt S399 Midweek bascd on double occupancy ai
The Equinox a Luxury Collcction GolfRcsort and Spa.

AU phołos ftczken at Burger Barn

out to eat

Restaurants
to Enjoy

Photographed hy
Jim Westphalen

Burger Barn

Jeffersonville

K ierstin Colaceci is very

familiar with what she calls “the
deer in the headlights” look on the faces
of first-time customers at the seasonal
roadside burger stand she owns and runs
with her boyfriend, Judson GraveL The
menu, posted on the side of their snack
shack with its eye-catching Holstein-
splotched roof, offers 31 burgers and
counting.“We never take any away. We
just keep adding," she says. Starting
with ajuicy base of local, grass-fed beef,

'i

*-

30

vermont life

vermontlife.com

out to eat

combinations rangę
from a top-notch
cheeseburger with
Cabot cheddar to
the Nutty Goat with
fresh goat cheese,
maple-crusted walnuts,
caramelized onions
and bacon to the Dino
Vercotti layered with
pepperoni, sausage,
mozzarella, provolone
and marinara sauce.

For newbies, Colaceci
ofiten recommends the
Ethan Allen, which
adds grilled Vermont
apples and cranberry-
garlic mayonnaise to the cheeseburger.
Nuts About Thai, with a lightly sauteed
cabbage and pepper sław and house-made
spicy peanut sauce, is a great choice for
the morę adventurous. Whichever burger
you choose, pair it with their deep golden,
perfectly crisp fries.“The meat being good
and local is where it s at,” claims Colaceci,
but the couples creativity and solid
execution are what takes the Burger Barn
to the next level.

$

Burger Barn

4968 Route 15
(802) 730-3441

Open May through October ~ MP

gravy, fluffy gingerbread
pancakes with a side of
freshly madę turkey sausage,
and huevos rancheros with a
deceptively complex house-
madę salsa are the stufF
of local breakfast legend.
(The pancakes madę it
national to the pages of Bon
Appetit a few years back.)
Students, businesspeople
and tourists flock in at lunch
for stornach' and spirit-
warming bowls of chicken
and biscuits (possibly the
best food value in town),
marinated tofu salad with
an addictive peanut-ginger
dressing, and specials like Swiss chard
and cheddar pie in summer and a classic
French Canadian pork pie served with
corn relish and house-made piekłeś in
fali.“We make good food that works for
people,” Reeves says with characteristic
understatement.

$

Penny Cluse Cafe

169 Cherry Street
(802) 651-8834
www.pennycluse.com

- MP

Roots the Restaurant

Rutland

12 and under
13-18
19-25
26-32
33 and up

For a

glimpsc at
the menus of
the restaurants
featured here, visit
vermontlife.
com.

Penny Cluse Cafe

Bu RLI NGTON

F LYING UNDER THE RADAR but

on everyones Burlington breakfast-
and lunch-favorites list, the team behind
Penny Cluse can afford to keep a Iow
profile. Co-owners husband and wife
Charles Reeves and Holly Cluse (Penny
was her childhood dog) and longtime
chef Maura 0 'Sullivan dont need to talk
up their always-good, interesting and
afFordable eats or friendly atmosphere
because these speak for themselves. The
flaky biscuits drenched in herb-green

C hef Donald Billings and Mark
Logan, a local physician, opened
Roots to serve afFordable meals created
from minimally processed, locally grown
produce and humanely raised livestock,
and it ąuickly became a local lunch and
dinner favorite. Billings is fueled by the
enthusiasm of local farmers who regularly
e-mail him or stop by and say,“I have
fiddleheads this week." Or bok choy. Or
raspberries. The chef then creates dishes
like baked emu with chipotle peppers and
caramelized onions served over mashed
potatoes, or mushroom ravioli tossed with
spinach and chicken in a sweet, nutty broth

VERMONTCONVENTION BUREAU

Plan your next
Meeting, Confererjce
orWedding
in Vermont!

Explore the Possibilities
www.vermontmeetings.com

Vermont Convention Bureau

Toll Free - ( 877 ) 264 3503

vermontlifc.com

summer 2012

3i

Living

At Wake Robin, residents have designed
and built three miles of walking trails.

Each Spring, we make mapie syrup in the
community sugar house and each Fali,
we harvest honey from our beehives. We
compost, plant gardens, and work with Staff
to follow earth-friendly practices, conserve
energy and use locally grown foods.

Live the life you choose—in our vibrant
community that shares your “green”
ideals. We’re happy to tell you morę.

Visit our website or give us a cali today to

Schedule a tour.

802.264.5100 / wakerobin.com

WakeRobin

YERMONTS LIFECARE COMMUNITY

SHELBURNE, VERMONT

t=ł

kissed with sesame oil. The kitchen goes
beyond local, too, with pan-seared scallops
served over warm spinach, or salmon
topped with a sweet-tart blueberry-
cinnamon chutney. Popular lunch dishes
include the Hathaway burger (Blue Ledge
Farm goat cheese optional) and chicken
curry wrap. With only 14 tables and a bar,
the stylish brick-walled restaurant is often
fuli, so cali ahead. With food this good
and affordably priced, who doesnt want
to return to their Roots?

$-$$$

Roots the Restaurant

51 Wales Street
(802) 747-7414
www.rootsrutland.com ~ PS

Tastings Food and
Spiriłs

North Troy

T he rural landscape of Troy,
located near the Canadian border
in Orleans County, is reminiscent of days
past, underlined by the gas pumps, which
still have those old meters that turn as
you fili up. So you could be caught off-
guard when your meal at Tastings arrives
in a Japanese-style bento box, a soup
surprises with the zing of pickled lemon
and the "carpaccio" is playfully shaved
beets. As is apparent on each piąte, cheT
owner Jeffrey Weiss has worked all over
the world, but in price, Tastings fits right
in. Wednesdays are"That's Amore" Datę
Night: a three-course meal and glass of
winę for two for $44. Thursdays offer a
$19 seafood box, with calamari Caesar
salad, crispy haddock over lobster sław
and morę. Local items flourish, too, like
five-spice-rubbed Brome Lakę duck from
just over the border, served with sweet
potato souffle and blackberry gastrique.
Or make a meal of pop-imyour-mouth
appetizers like pulled pork and blue
cheese egg rolls or truffled poutine.
Traditional desserts include beautifully
plated mapie creme brulee and carrot
cake. Some might say Troy is in the

3 2 • vermont life

vermontlife.com

middle of nowhere, but your dining
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Vergennes

T his elegant European-style

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that previously occupied its high-ceilinged
space. It also evokes the world-renowned
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quality to which owners Juliannę and
Didier Murat aspire. At barely a year
old, their bakery landed a Food SC Winę
magazine feature laced with “superlative,'
“perfect” and “excellent” accolades for
its wood-fired tarts, naturally leavened
breads, croissants and canneles, an
unusual French pastry with a deeply
caramelized exterior and custardy center.
Didier is the French native, but Juliannę,
who hails from Buffalo, is the family
baker with a purists focus. Do not expect
the overstuffed cases of a typical U.S.
bakery. Daily offerings include a couple of
fire-blistered tarts topped with seasonal,
local ingredients like wild mushrooms,
fennel, creme fraiche and herbs, or
zucchini with mint and goat cheese, and
one or two baguette sandwiches, perhaps
prosciutto with creamy burrata cheese or
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With time running out,
old and new interłwine
to save Barber Farm

By Melissa Pasanen
Photographed by Daria Bishop

he Barber Farm has stood in the
town of Jericho longer than the United
States has been a country — its soil
was first turned in 1774 — but were
it not for a chance meeting about six
years ago at a film festival, the farm
might have vanished into memory.

The connection happened in
Burlington at the Vermont International Film
Festival, a rights-and-causes event that had
booked a IowTudget documentary called
"The Barber Farm” (locals often use“the” when
describing the place). The movie had been madę
by Gretchen Siegchrist, 33, then a film student
whose family had deep ties to the land going
back to the 1940S. Part homage, part ery for
help, Siegchrists film outlined the rich history
of the farm as well as its current dilemma: It
was an exceptional piece of Vermont farmland,
but for almost two decades it had lain fallow.
With no one willing to farm it commercially,
time was running out.

In the festival audience, as it happened,
was Mark Fasching of Jericho Settlers' Farm, a
new-school diversified farm operating less than
two miles from Barber Farm. Fasching and his
wife, Christa Alexander, had been looking to
expand their operation, but had no idea there

summer 2012

• 37

Located wi thin easy c ommucing distance to Burlington and
Essex Junction, the land was worth morę to grow subdivisions than food.

was land available nearby.“I grew up picking
strawberries there,” Alexander recalls. "I
knew it was there, but I didnt know they
were looking to transition.”

n THE spring of 2007, Alexander
and Fasching began farming a trial plot
on the Barber property. At the time,
the filmmakers grandmother, Doris
Marshall, was still alive, and as the
matriarch of the elan, she was presiding
over the fate of the farm. It was ultimately
her decision, but there were her five adult
children to consider, and naturally, they had
their own lives, their own priorities, and
could well imagine the income generated by
selling at the fuli appraised value rather than
the lesser revenue from a conservation deal.
Located within easy commuting distance
to Burlington and Essex Junction, the land
was worth morę to grow subdivisions than
food. “My mother wanted two things that
didnt match up," explains Jean Siegchrist,
Marshalls daughter and mother of
Gretchen, the filmmaker. “She wanted to
give as much as she could to her children, and
she wanted to keep the farm open,”Jean says.

“At a certain time there was so much friction,
we couldn t even sit down to discuss it”

By the winter of 2008, Marshall had
decided to dig in and make a last push
to restore the farm to active agricultural
operation. Despite financial uncertainty,
and the wishes of some family members, she
sold the 148-acre property to Jean and her
husband, Charlie, who had been living in the
main farmhouse sińce the early 1980S.

“We had worked the land ourselves,“Jean
says.“We had come to appreciate and love it.
We had a glimmer but no guarantee of a land
trust deal. We just had to take the chance.”

HE EFFORT TO SAVE BARBER FaRM,
* as it turns out, was not as quixotic as
it might seem, and soon many strands
of Vermont life began to intertwine:
land trust organizations, voters at town
meeting, area residents, and out-of-staters
who had spent summers on the farm over
the years.

As a critical first step, Jericho Settlers Farm
signed a 10-year lease with the Siegchrists,
giving Barber Farm a link to Vermonts
thriving new-school farm movement.

ABOVE,LEFT Farm
owners Jean and
Charlie Siegchrist
with daughter
Gretchen, whose
low-budget film
"The Barber Farm"
helped spur the
turnaround. Also
pictured. Gretchen's
daughter Clare.
RIGHT The main
farmhouse on the
148-acre property.

1 i f e

With the assurance of a committed
farming tenant, the Vermont Land Trust
purchased a conservation easement
for $ 240 , 000 , a little less than half the
propertys appraised development value.
The land can be sold but never developed,
and if the potential buyer is not a farmer,
the land trust can buy the farm at its
agricultural value.

The purchase and associated costs
were funded by the Vermont Housing
and Conservation Board, supplemented

Hands on łhe Land: Siblings Hazel
and Asa Tasching are in touch with
the soil ftilled by their parents, who
have the farm thriving again.

by $ 34,200 raised jointly by the Vermont
Land Trust and the Jericho Underhill Land
Trust — including $ 13,000 voted by town
residents from Jerichos Open Space fund,
as well as almost 100 donations ranging
from as large as $ 2,700 to as smali as $ 10 .

Barber Farm also received help from
its many far-flung friends. Generations
of families had vacationed there sińce
the early 1900 S, when it was owned by
summer resident Charles Ezra Scribner,
a pioneering telephone switchboard
engineer from Chicago. Two summer
cottages on the property are still owned
by Scribners descendants. “People called
from all over — from California, from
Canada,"says Livy Strong, board president
of the Jericho Underhill Land Trust.

“The farm means so much to so many
people who had spent summers there; it
had been such a part of their lives."

D oris Marshall died three
summers ago, at age 95, but she lived
to see the farm enter a new chapter in
its 238'year history.“Its like anything
else, it doesn t stay the same. Nothing
stays the same," she told granddaughter
Gretchen, who is filming a sequel about the
farms recent passage. But, she added, “The
land has stayed the same."

On what would be her
mothers last Mothers Day,
Jean Siegchrist took her on
a ride around the farm and
recalls how happy Marshall
was to see the land active
again, the fields lush with
vegetables, dotted with cattle,
sheep and hundreds of free-
ranging chickens. "She saw
all these animals making the
fields beautiful again. She
loved that," Jean says.

Gil Livingston, president
of the Vermont Land Trust,
describes the Barber Farm effort as a
“cutting edge" example of 2ist-century
conservation, an empowering model
involving grass-roots support of the
working landscape. “Were increasingly
helping young farmers to establish
themselves," he says. “Access to land is
among the highest barriers, particularly
good soil in proximity to Burlington, with
its markets and people."

The land seems as promising now
as it did in Colonial times. On a hot
August afternoon, Mark Fasching strides
across the fields explaining how Barber
Farms fine, rock-free soil and slightly
longer growing season complements
Jericho Settlers' home farm. The summer
sąuashes are winding down, the hayloft
is piled high with garlic bulbs drying and
the crew is about to transplant fali and
early winter head lettuce and scallions.
Working this farm, Fasching says, “has
propelled us to the next level." #

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• vermont life

vermontlife.com

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Built around you.

We all cherish
Vermont's classic
mansions. Buł

Peggy Shinn

otographed by
Westphalen

would you want

to inherił one

On Main Street in Cabot

sits a three-story, 19-room Victorian
mansion, painted its original gold,
with ornate maroon and white trim*
Presiding over a terraced lawn, the
house has a protruding circular bay
on the front (called “the round room")
and a mansard roof* It looks elegant,
proper and Stern — very much like my
grandmother, who lived there most of
her life.

The house was built in the i86os by
my great-great-grandfather, Sherburne
WiswelL Grandpa Wiswell was a
country doctor, but it was Grandma
Seraphine Wiswells money that paid
for construction. Her family owned
saw and grist mills, plus woolen

“ Over tbe years,

evo

into morę than a

a family museum and a

wmm

businesses in East Hardwick, and she and
her new husband moved to Cabot to start
a life of their own, According to family
lorę, she tripled her wealth by shrewdly
lending money to Cabot farmers —
and then foreclosing on their farms
when they couldnt repay their debts.

My great-grandmother, Gertrudę
Wiswell Wells, and my grandmother,
Marjorie Wells Coyle, returned to live
in the house after they were married
because they preferred it to the plainer
accommodations provided by their
husbands. My mother grew up there,
too, and for most of her childhood,
three generations lived under its fiat
mansard roof

The family fortunę is long gone, but
the house remains in the family — as do
four generations of artifacts, including
Grandma Wells wedding dress and
World War I ordnance collected by
my grandfather. The interior is still
decorated much as it was when the
Wiswells lived there, except an electric
rangę has replaced the woodstove that
once dominated the kitchen, and modern
plumbing has rendered the privy off the
back shed obsolete.

Over the years, the house has evolved
into morę than a dwelling. It is both a family
museum and a member of the family. My
parents, who spend their summers there,
care for it as if it were a frail old relative.

But with jobs and families of
our own, my sister and I do not live
near Cabot, nor do we have the same
connection to Cabot as our forebears
(we were raised in Lyndon Center). The
luxury of yesteryear has also faded. So
what will become of the house when my
parents can no longer cater to its ever-
growing needs? Am I obliged to live in
it? What have other Vermonters done in
this situation?

It depends very much, it turns out,
on whether the ancestral home is in the

Continued on page 47

vermontlifc.com

sum mer 2012

• 45

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vermont life

vermontlife.com

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Continued from page 45

city, so to speak, or the country. While
Vermont's towns and villages are still
rich with historie homes, most of
the original families' heirs sold these
properties long ago.

Many of the buildings have been
turned into law offices, real estate
agencies, bed and breakfasts and even
smali museums. The heirs moved on
— to see the world, to find or take jobs
elsewhere, or just to live in morę modern
dwellings in quieter parts of town. We
live in a highly mobile society, and its
often difficult to spread our own wings
while saddled with a big house —
particularly one thats costly to maintain.

A willingness to shoulder that
burden, however, appears to be much
greater when the ancestral home is a
farm. Many continue to farm through
seven and eight generations, viewing
themselves as stewards of the land and
the farm.

But every one of us, at some point,
must decide whether to stay in the place
where we grew up or take our own path.
For me, that path led out West for many
years, then back to Vermont, and now
Rutland, where I live with my husband
and daughter. Our home, with big
Windows and comfortable furniture, fits
our life.

Sometimes, when I visit Cabot and
sit in the red velvet rocker overlooking
the stained glass window in the “round
room,” I wonder what Grandma Wiswell
would say if she could see Cabot now.
Part of her would no doubt be thrilled
that her house still stands — and is
relatively untouched. But I think her
shrewd side would ąuickly trump
sentimentality, and she would scold us
for riding her coattails for all these years.

"Move on with your lives!” she might
say. “Get out! This house can take care
of itself. Go make your own fortunę
and build your own house. But take the
family portraits with you.” #

vermontlife.com

summer 2012

• 47

cows

Why is raw milk so contentious?

Photographed by Caleb Kenna

EAGHAN KANE pulls 3 .
fresh jar of milk out of
her refrigerator and sets
it down on the broad
counter in her sunny
farmhouse kitchen. The milk is a buttery color,
thick and cold and topped by a layer of cream.
She gives the jar a shake. On mornings like
this, she adds a splash to her cofFee. For lunch,
the milk will reappear in a difFerent form, as
homemade mozzarella. By midafternoon it s
time for a tali glass accompanied by a slice of
apple bread.

By definition, this is raw milk — meaning
it came not from a Vermont supermarket but
directly from the cows that graze on the hilly
patches of pasture at Symphony Farm, which
Kane runs with her domestic partner, Jonathan
Falby, in Washington. For Kane and her
customers, who come to her door to buy it, raw
milk is a throwback, and an inviting one. It is
unpasteurized, unprocessed, unhomogenized
and — when one considers the short handofF
from cow to farmer to customer — about as
TocaT as“local food” can get.

But the matter of raw milk is not so
simple. Tied to raw milk are deeper concerns
about public health, individual rights, the
reach of government, the power of corporate

agriculture and the fate of smali farms. Indeed,
raw milk is part of what Time magazine called
“the brewing culture war over food.”

n Vermont, the issue of raw milk
began to gather momentum in 2005,
when Rural Vermont, a nonprofit
advocacy group, began pushing to remove the
uncertainty hanging over raw milk sales. At
the time, raw milk sales were not expressly
forbidden in Vermont, but farmers were also
scared about a potential crackdown. Such
fears were not unfounded: The U.S. Food and
Drug Administration bans the interstate sale
of raw milk and has raided farms suspected
of breaking that rule. Even state-by-state
regulations around raw milk sales vary wildly,
ranging from the right to sell unpasteurized
dairy in supermarkets to an outright ban on
selling the product altogether.

In 2009, the Vermont legislature debated
and finally passed a law regulating the sale
of raw milk, though not before impassioned
arguments that tended to pit smali farmers
and independent-minded consumers against
the Vermont Agency of Agriculture, the
Vermont Veterinary Medical Association and
large milk cooperatives.

The law was considered a victory for raw

48

vermont life

vermontlife.com

August 28,2011

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SMALL SCALĘ: The economics of
raw milk allow sellers like Jonathan
Falby and Meaghan Kane to care
for fewer animals and hołd down
jobs off the farm.

milk sellers (which number about 150
in the State) because it legitimized
in statute their right to do so. It also
assured consumers that a level of
oversight was being applied to the
safety of the product, which, like many
foods, carries at least some risk of
harmful bacteria. But the law also came
with restrictions. Raw milk sellers, for
instance, cannot sell cream, skim milk,
yogurt or fresh cheese. They cannot sell
in Stores, and at farmers markets, they
can only advertise and collect payment,
with pickup or delivery later.

In the three years sińce the
regulations were passed, raw milk
sellers have chafed against the
restrictions, including a skirmish with
regulators over cheesemaking classes,
and Rural Vermont continues to lobby
for expansion of raw milk sales into
the local food system. They say the
current rules are limiting the growth
of a viable new direction for Vermont
dairy. Morę philosophically, their
views share ground with the loose-
knit “food sovereignty” movement,
an agrarian libertarian approach
that envisions Vermonters feeding
Vermonters directly, with minimal
intrusion by factory-food systems and
State regulators.

"Were in the midst of a paradigm
shift,” says Andrea Stander, executive
director of Rural Vermont, "and
everybodys trying to figurę out where
the comfort zonę is.”

W HILE THE SALE of raw
milk can be freighted
with ideological values,
it can also be a pure dollars-and-cents
decision lor smali farmers. A Rural
Yermont survey this year shows price

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per galion for raw cows milk ranged from
$4 to $io per galion, with a statewide
average of $ 6 .io per galion. By contrast, a
farmer selling milk under the federal milk
pricing system received roughly $ 1.85 per
galion last December. Under this system,
a farmer has no control over the price
milk will fetch: Milk leaves on the truck,
and a check arrives the following month.

Organie dairy farmers usually obtain
a higher price because they negotiate
individual contracts with a co-op or
other buyer, and because consumers
expect to pay a premium for it. But the
grinding national recession has reduced
the overall consumer demand for
higher-priced organie milk, and Falby,

I n the debate over raw milk,
pasteurization can become sorne-
thing of a bogeyman, a symbol of
industrial processing that robs food
of nutrients and flavor. Yet it is worth
remembering that pasteurization — the
heating of milk to kill bacteria — has long
been considered a significant advance in
public health and safety. At the turn of the
20 th century, inereased milk production
and distribution were causing milkborne
illnesses, including typhoid fever, scarlet
fever and diphtheria. In 1938 , according
to Cornell University, milk products
were the source of 25 percent of food and
waterborne illnesses. Today that number
— with the help of pasteurization — is

U Were in
the midst of a
paradigm shift,”
says Andrea
Stander, executive
director of Rural
Vermont, “and
everybodys
trying to figurę
out where the
comfort zonę is.”

at Symphony Farm, says he was ready
to fold until he discovered raw milk. “I
crunched the numbers and said,'Wow, I
think we can make morę money milking
five cows [than 45 ].” Falby and Kane can
now set their own price for their milk,
care for fewer animals and hołd down
jobs off the farm.

just one percent. Meanwhile, the FDA
cites 800 cases of sickness from drinking
raw milk or eating raw milk cheeses
sińce 1998 .

“The pasteurization of milk has been
around a long time, and it s effective,"
says Vermont Deputy Secretary of
Agriculture Dianę Bothfeld. “If you

52

• vermont life

vermontlife.com

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choose and want to purchasc raw milk,
you [have to] understand the issues. It
isnt about the fact that the farm is clean
or dirty. Bacteria is everywhere."

For now, Bothfeld says Vermonts
raw milk regulations are designed to
strike a balance, so that “we could allow

PERSON TO PERSON: Meaghan Kane
prepares raw milk for sale to
consumers, who come to Her door
at Symphony Farm in Washington.

consumers to have a choice but still
protect the safety and health of the
human population”

However for Stander, of Rural
Vermont, the push toward a new model
goes on.“We have a system of regulation
that was developed to meet the needs
of big industrial food production, and
those regulations dont really fit with
this smaller scalę, locally based economy
that s growing by leaps and bounds.”

By Bill Anderson and Kathryn
Flagg. Reporteci by Kathryn Flagg.

54

• vermont Iifc

vermontlife.com

Buy one subscription to
Vermont Life and get a

second one free, plus get entered

to win a dream getaway with
the legendary von Trapp family

at the Trapp Family Lodge

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Pa t li s o f
Enligkten ment

Pb o t o gr aph e d by Brian Mohr

ERMONT IS LACED WITH TRAILS -

bike trails, walking trails, ski trails,
and of course, the majestic Long
Trail. Trails can be highly touted or off the map,
bustling with visitors or known only to locals.
The longer you live in Vermont, the morę trails
you find. For a handful of Vermonters, trails even
provide full-time careers in traibbuilding.

Timber and Stone of East Calais, formed eight
years ago by owner Josh Ryan (center, right), is one
of only three Vermont members in the national
Professional Trailbuilders Association. The notion
of making a living as a traibbuilder is relatively
new, with roots in the environmental movement
of the '70S, but today virtually every community
wants to enhance its trails. The Morton Trails
company, based in Thetford Center, says as people
increasingly seek healthy outdoor lifestyles and
alternative means of commuting, trails are “one of
the most highly valued amenities for communities
and property owners.” Morton also says the process
of building a trail — selecting its path and purposes,
getting it going, drumming up volunteers — often
acts as a catalyst for community involvement,
bringing citizens, businesses, land trusts, schools
and many other local elements together.

Ali roads, in a sense, lead to trails. Tahawus
Trails, based in East Corinth, works across a
rangę of disciplines, aiming to be “professional
craftspeople, innovators, visionaries, artists,
educators and passionate land stewards.” Its just
the blend of grit and Zen that fits right in to the
Vermont landscape. $

Reported by Sky Barsch

te 4

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fam

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Plus

Near Ben & Jerrys & Stowe:

84 rooms/suites, some with Whirlpool,
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pool. Wi-Fi; Continental breakfast;
kids stay free.

■

Waterbury, VT
(800) 621-7822

bestwesternwaterburystowe.com

Snów Goose

Mount Snów, VT Inn

Boutiąue hotel near
the base of Mount Snów.
Antique-appointed rooms,
fireplaces, Jacuzzis. Pet-friendly.
Wi-Fi, cable TV, private baths, A/C.

■

West Dover, VT
(888) 604-7964 snowgooseinn.com

BASIN HARBOR CLUB

Secluded cove on Lakę Champlain.
Lakeside cottages, most with fireplaces; two
main guesthouses. Golf, tennis, water sports,
childrens program. May - October.

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(800) 622-4000 basinharbor.com

Lakeside Camping

ISLAND POND, VERMONT

Majestic pines, over 1,500'
of sandy beaches, and
priceless lakeshore views
provide an exceptional setting
for 200 campsites.

Free Wi-Fi.

Island Pond, VT
(802) 723-6649 lakesidecamping.com

THE

Nountaiii Top

Overlooking spectacular mountains
and a sparkling lakę, this four-season
Resort ofFers"breathtaking views,”
casual dining, endless outdoor
adventures. Close to Killington.

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Chittenden, VT
(802) 483-2311 mountaintopinn.com

/4

Montshire

Museum of Science

Award-winning 100-acre science center.

Over 140 hands-on exhibits indoors
and out; daily programs; special events;
visiting exhibitions; Museum Storę.
Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

■

Norwich, VT
(802) 649-2200 montshire.org

58

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Vermont Mountaineers Baseball
Todays Top Prospects ♦ Tomorrows
Major League Baseball Stars
Great food, family-oriented fiin/games,
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Montpelier, VT
(802) 223-5224 thevermontmountaineers.com

TfappTamil^ Lod^e

2,500-acre mountain resort
in the European tradition
by the family that inspired
"The Sound of Musie.”

■

Stowe, VT

(800) 826-7000 trappfamily.com

Capitol Plaża

-♦-

Hotel & Conference Center

Central Vermonts Premier
Hotel & Conference Center.
Exceptional hospitality and comfort.
Voted“Best Hotel” in Central Vermont.

■

Montpelier, VT
(800) 274-5252 capitolplaza.com

vermontlife.com

IJiilm

Set on 150 mountainside acres
overlooking the famous Battenkill.
Romantic rooms with views. Fresh local
cuisine, gala weddings, restful retreats.

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Arlington, VT

(802) 375-6516 westmountaininn.com

“Craft beer mecca”

- The Boston Globe

■

Montpelier, VT
(802) 223-TAPS threepennytaproom.com

jmoBCflns

BILLBOARDS
IN UERMONT?

VERMONT'S VISITOR CENTERS

serve over 9,000 people each day.

Even though łhere are no billboards in Vermont, you can
still get your message out ot Vermont's visitor centers.

For morę information contact:

Cindy Roberts: 802-265-2210 (brochure placement)
cindy.roberts@state.vt.us

Lisa Sanchez: 802-828-6909 (print media)
lisa.sanchez@state.vt.us

YERMONT

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http://bgs.vermont.gov/information_centers

BETTER THAN BILLBOARDS

Vermont’s Cutting-Edge Steakhouse

Unmatched Steaks with
a perfectly matched new atmosphere.

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Montpelier, VT
(802) 223-5222 jmorgans.com

Moose

'A*uŁ

Full-service RV sites ♦ Pull-thru sites ♦
Tent sites on river ♦ Quiet Park ♦

Free Wi-Fi ♦ Cable ♦ Dog Friendly
We cater to adults.

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St. Johnsbury, VT
(802) 748-4334 mooserivercampground.com

Farm vacation ofFers abundant, fresh
local foods family-style; lodging; farm
activities; outdoor recreation; relaxing
retreat for family and friends in any season.

■

Rochester, VT
(802) 767-3926 libertyhillfarm.com

The Inn at
Shelburne Farms

Open May 10 - October 21, 2012,
for breakfast, dinner,

Sunday brunch, Sunday suppers
and overnight accommodations.

■

Shelburne, VT
(802) 985-8498 shelburnefarms.org

vcrmontlife.com

s u m m e r 2012

59

Never

hiked Cctmels
Hump? Here's your
guide to the eosy way
up and great places to relax
and refuel after you're down.

By Sky Barsch

S THE ONLY UNDEVELOPED
mountain in Vermont over
4,000 feet — it measures in at
4,083 — Camels Hump has a
majestic presence unrivaled in
the State.

Some might only need to
catch sight of this towering
landmass to be convinced to climb it;
others might need morę persuading. Its
a feat to hike 6.8 miles round trip — and
devote five or so hours to the task. But
the rewards are endless. When you arrive
at the summit, the view is incredible. On
a elear day, you ’11 see Mount Mansfield
and the Worcester Rangę to the north,
and to the south, the Long Trail chain,
including Mount Ellen, Mount Abe,
Killington and Pico. To the west, this
view of Champlain gives you a sense of
how massive the lakę really is, and to
the east, you can see New Hampshires

ÓO

vermont life

vermontlife.com

WĘ&Ęm'

vcrmontlife.com

sum mer 2012

61

resident sińce 2006

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the beautiful pages of Vermont Life. Proudly advertise your lodging,
restaurant, attraction, art, crafts, special food products or Vermont gifts in
the stunning autumn issue of Vermont Life. Rates start as Iow as $350 for a
1/12-page ad in our Visitor Information Center and Vermont Life Emporium
sections. Space reservation deadline is June 8. Ad materials are due June 15.

Contact:

DAVE HAKINS

Publisher SC Director of Advertising

(802) 828-1680 daye.hakins^yermontlife.com

Yermont Life Products

wn a gift shop, inn or generał storę i Offer Vermont Life products in
time for Vermont’s busy foliage tourist season! Vermont Life calendars,
books, cards and morę. Contact:

JAN HUBBARD

Director of Product Sales

(802) 865-6233 jan.hubbard@vermontlife.com

Mount Washington. On a hazy day, just
the view of the Camels Hump State Park,
its endless evergreen trees appearing as a
mirage of green corduroy, or the birds-
eye-view of Interstate 89, so smali it looks
like a road built of Legos, makes you feel
like you are on top of the world.

One of the things that makes
Camels Hump so appealing, besides
the incredible views from the top, is
the well-maintained trails that make it
easy to navigate. The trail gets a lot of
use, so if youre in doubt on directions,
theres often someone to ask. And the
climb does not require any special
mountaineering equipment — just
sturdy hiking boots, food, water and
several layers of clothing.

There are two ways to climb the
Hump that could be considered the
easiest, but we chose the Monroe
Trail because it is close to the town of
Waterbury, where you can stock up on
snacks ahead of time and wind down
with a variety of places that offer a great
after-hike meal.

Getting There

rom U.S. Route 2, turn west
onto Winooski Street. Follow until
the end, and turn right at the T
to River Road. Follow River Road
for 3.9 miles, then turn left onto
Camels Hump Road. Follow Camels
Hump Road until the end, where you'll
find a parking lot off to the right.

Be warned: There are a few roads
that intersect with Camels Hump Road,
and it can be a bit confusing at times.
About 1.3 miles down Camels Hump
Road, bear left at the fork, and you will
cross a bridge. Continue over another
bridge, and you will see a sign that
welcomes you to Camels Hump State
Park. Stay to the right, and there will be
two parking lots on your right. You can
park in either of these — the upper lot is
where the trail begins, but fills quickly on
holidays and weekends. Besides, should
you really worry about a few morę steps
when youre about to climb to 4,083 feet?

Ó2

yermont life

vermontlife.com

Hike On!

he Monroe Trail is beautiful in
its simplicity — you will hike for 1.3
miles before you even have to think
about navigating. (Nevertheless,
don t forget to sign-in at the trailhead
in case someone in your party gets hurt
or lost.) At 1.3 miles, the Dean Trail links
in on your left. Stay straight/to the right.
For another 1.2 miles, the trail does the
thinking for you. The next area you ’11
need to be aware of is the Crossing with
the Alpine Trail. Stay straight to cross the

<

2

2

u

Always a Good Idea ...

<

u

Before you head out, visit

a

i

the Green Mountain Clubs

Q

D

website for the latest trail

a.

O

U

conditions and Information:

i

<

www.greenmountainclub.org.

Alpine Trail and continue on the Monroe
Trail. At 3.1 miles into the hike (0.6 from
the Alpine Crossing), you'll come to a
clearing, called the Camels Hump Hut
Clearing. This is where the Monroe Trail
ends and meets up with the Long Trail, as
well as the Burrows Trail.

If you have a dog with you, this
is where your pet will have to be put

on a leash. Foot and canine trafhc can
irreparably harm the fragile vegetation at
the summit. You also may want to stop to
put on a layer, as the top of the mountain
can be quite windy.

Join the Long Trail, headed south, by
taking the trail immediately to your left
from the Monroe Trail. Its just 0.3 miles
to the summit — but this is a tough

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Cabot, VT

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East Calais, VT
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Available via e-mail, bookstores,
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South Strafford, VT
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stretch! Its quite steep, but the good
news is that you begin to catch views of
the Champlain Valley and, eventually,
Lakę Champlain.

Once youre at the top, look for
the metal summit marker so you know
you've fully“summited.” This is a glorious
place to have lunch, take photographs,
and soak in the views and the sun.

When you depart the summit, make
surę you exit the way you came — on the
Long Trail, but headed north this time.
Go back to the clearing, and take the
trail immediately to your right, getting
back on the Monroe Trail. Again, cross
the Alpine Trail by staying straight, and
when you arrive at the junction with the
Dean Trail, stay left. And dont forget to
check out at the sign-in station before
heading out for a libation.

Hungry After That Hike?

any Restaurants in the Water-
bury area were damaged by
Tropical Storm Irene. Some closed
shop, while others rebuilt, and
new businesses opened. Dining in
town is not only a way to ensure a
memorable, creative meal, but it is an
effective way to help these businesses
along their path to recovery. Called the
Recreation Crossroads of Vermont,
Waterbury caters to the outdoorsy
crowd, so dont feel bashful grabbing
a bite in your muddy hiking boots.

The Reservoir Restaurant &
Taproom (i South Main St.) showcases
many Vermont brews and has a solid
pub menu that includes a delicious
beet salad, featuring roasted beets and
Vermont chevre (try it with salmon).

Cider House Barbecue and Pub
(1675 U.S. Route 2) has reopened after
last autumns flooding and is the place
to go for Southern-style food, such as
Spicy Crawfish and Andouille Sausage
Gumbo, cheese grits, hush puppies
and, of course, cider in a comfortable
atmosphere. Open every day at 4:30 p.m.

For light and refreshing spring
rolls or stick-to-your-ribs pad thai,

VERMONT VERNACULAR DESIGNS

Custom Reproduction 18th and 19th Century Yermont Homes

www.vermontvernaculardesigns.com ♦ Office: 802 - 224-0300 or Fax: 802 - 224-0301

Cottages, Independent Living, Residential Care
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Cali to Schedule lunch and a tour.

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www. emeritus. com

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Junel6&17

Tunbridge Fairgrounds ■ Tunbridge, Vermont

10:00 am
to 5:00 pm

(802) 479-8500 www.vermonthistory.orgy expo

vermontlifc.com

sum mer 2012

65

i c

Dinę

Work

AKE CHAMPLAIN IsLANDS
Chamber of Commerce members
warmly invite you to linger in
their scenie wonderland this
summer and autumn—The Tyler
Place Family Resort, The North Hero
House, Thomas Mott B&B, Saint
Annę s Shrine, Grand Isle Art Works,
Dunkleys Gymnastic Camp, and Bauer,
Gravel, Farnham, Nuovo 8C Parker.

Lakę J
Champlain
Islands

Chamber of
Commerce

champlainislands.com

BUnWeyBS

Gymnastic Camp

on beautiful Lakę Champlain

Located direedy on Lakę Champlain,
with 35 campers per session and a
1 to 5 counselor to camper ratio.

South Hero, VT
(802) 899-3479 gymcamp.homestead.com

BAUER, GRAVEL,
FARNHAM,
NUOVO & PARKER

A full-service law firm, providing creative
Solutions for client concerns.
Ofhces located in Burlington, Colchester,
North Hero and Montpelier.

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vtlawoffices.com
(802) 863-5538

All-Inclusive

Family Vacations & Reunions sińce 1933

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66

vermont life

vermontlifc.com

Mt Wo\h,

A Vermont Artisan Gallery and Cafe
Your island destination for ąuality art
from over 60 Vermont artisrs
Pottery, wood, glass, fiber, jewelry, morę

Grand Isle, VT

(802) 378-4591 grandisleartworks.com

, t. Annes
firine

Jsfe La ACotte,VT

“On thc Shorw of Lakc Champliin"

Religious and historical site on
the shores of Lakę Champlain.
Chapel, pavilion, history room, cafe, gifts,
beach, dock, pienie grounds.

■

Isle La Motte, VT

(802) 928-3362 saintannesshrine.org

INN & RESTAURANT

A romantic 26-room country inn
and casual fine-dining restaurant
located on the shores of Lakę Champlain.

■

North Hero, VT

(802) 372-4732 northherohouse.com

4

Thomas Mott Homestead

Bed and Brcakfast
63 Blut Rock Rd Alburgh, VT 05440

F

We are located directly on
Lakę Champlain,

60 miles from Montreal
and Burlington Vermont.

Stay here and explore the Islands!

■

Alburgh, VT

(800) 348-0843 thomas-mott-bb.com

Ocha (60 Main St.) serves authentic
Thai food for lunch and dinner.
Friendly Staff accommodates to make
your dish to your liking, whether you
want mild, spicy, meaty or vegetarian.

Share a cheese board, artisanal
charcuterie or pate piąte at Cork
Winę Bar 8ć Market (1 Stowe St.).
Or try the fresh-pressed panini. A
varied winę selection takes you from
South America to Europę and beyond.

Arvads Grill & Pub (3 South
Main St.) serves American favorites
like onion rings, New England clam
chowder, Reubens, local Boyden beef
burgers and lemon-pepper chicken,
as well as quesadillas and coconut
shrimp. An extensive beer list and fuli
bar make this a nice place to apres.

A new pub has emerged in
the space that housed the beloved
Alchemist Pub & Brewery (which
closed when Irene ruined the contents
of the basement, including brewing
eąuipment). Prohibition Pig (23
South Main St.) serves spicy barbecue
sandwiches, pickled vegetables, soft
pretzel knots, shrimp and grits, and
morę Southern-flavored food. House
cocktails are heavy on whiskey
and gin, and the beer list includes
a nod to the former occupants, the
Alchemists Heady Topper (a hoppy
double IPA madę at the relatively new
cannery located near Ben & Jerrys).

Ahead of time, try K.C.s Bagel
Cafe (17 Stowe St.) for hearty bagels
and cream cheese in many flavors, bagel
sandwiches and Green Mountain coffee.

Park Row Cafe (7 Park Row)
serves big sandwiches on homemade
bread, piled high with fresh dęli meats,
house-made hummus and a long list
of optional veggies. Breakfast is diner-
style farę, comforting and satiating.
An efhcient Staff gets you in and out
quickly, so dont despair if the linę
reaches the door (this place is no secret).

For snacks and supplies, try Village
Market of Waterbury (80 South Main
St.), or visit Shaws supermarket at 820
Waterbury-Stowe Road (Route 100). &

Cruise

into

summer
vacation
planning!

YERMONT

Vacation Guide

Compllmentary

Available at
www.VisitVT.com
or contact
info@vtchamber
802 - 223-3443

YERMONT

Chamber (of/ Commerce

FREE

Vermont

Vacation

Guide

vermontlifc.com

summer 2012

67

cooking in season

By Melissa Pasanen

W i tb recipe-testing
assistance by
Sarah Strauss

Pbotograpbed by
Andrew Wellman

OPPOSITE Corn Friłłers
With Pesto Sour Cream
and Heirloom Tomałoes

HERES REALLY ONLY ONE THING tO do with the
first sweet corn of the summer: steam, boil or grill it as
you prefer, and then eat it straight ofF the cob, kernels
popping satisfyingly under your teeth and corn juice
dripping down your chin.

But sometimes you want to celebrate corn in a
difFerent way. Three Vermont chefs shared some ideas.

Executive chef Lisa Battilana has worked at the
Woodstock Farmers Market sińce 1997. The specialty-
food market ofFers a wide rangę of products, including meat and fish as well
as prepared foods. They have long placed an emphasis on local produce.
“Before there was localvore, we were buying from local farms," she says.

As far back as Battilana can remember, and probably before, the
Woodstock Farmers Market has bought corn from MacLennan Farm in
Windsor. In mid- to late-July, depending on the weather, the local corn comes
in and customers descend like bees on honey. “Its sort of astonishing how
much we go through on a busy summer weekend," she says.

It is the task of the stafF to use up any leftover corn in dishes for the
markets preparedToods case — not a big challenge, Battilana says. It often
makes its way into salads, like the southwestern-accented corn salad she
shares on the next page, or tossed simply with baby mozzarella balls and local
tomatoes. Other favorites include curried crab and corn cakes, corn chowder
and a cold gazpacho with corn.

At Black Krim Tavern in Randolph, chef and co-owner Emily Wilkins
is embarking on her second summer at the cozy new restaurant she created
with friend Sarah Natvig. They source much of their produce directly from
Natvigs husband, Chip, who runs Pebble Brook Farm. He grows everything
from the restaurant s eponymous Black Krim heirloom tomatoes to beets, but
he doesnt grow corn — that they buy from John Davis in East Randolph.

Wilkins loves to roast corn over an open flame.“Thats such a good flavor.
It brings out the sugar and the starch," she says. She uses flame^roasted corn in
a variety of the smali and larger shareable plates ofFered at Black Krim, folding
it into tamales with black beans and cheddar served with a tomatillo sauce,
deploying it in fresh salsas, and serving a warm roasted-corn salad tossed with
Black Krim tomatoes, basil pesto and a white wine-garlic-chili butter.

But if preparing fresh corn just for herself, Wilkins will most likely throw
a cob on the grill, get a little char on it, and then slather it with salt and butter
before biting in.“That's my style, for surę," she says.

vcrmontlife.com

summer 2012

69

Fresh

Pastries

vermont

Country Deli

Goumict

togo...

436 Western Avenue
Brattleboro. Vermont
802-257-9254
www.vermonlcountrydeli.com

We're open 7am-7pm everyday

termo ot
Products

Burlington
Farmers’ Market

The Summer Market
opens on May 12 in
City Hall Park.
Every Saturday
8:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
70 yendors

Richard Jarmusz, executive chef at
Fletcher Allen Healthcare in Burlington,
loves fresh corn as much as anyone. "Its
one of the best parts of summer," he
says, but he also enjoys using Vermont-
grown cornmeal for the texture and sweet
nutty flavor it adds to baked goods and
wholesome fruit desserts like his cherry
cobbler with cornmeal topping.

Jarmusz also notes happily that hes
now able to buy frozen local corn to use
in the hospitals chowder, succotash and
salsa year-round. So now you can add a
touch of Vermonts summer sweetness to
the menu during any season.

Santa Fe Meets Vermont
Corn and Black Bean
Salad

Adapted from executive chef Lisa
Battilana, Woodstock Farmers Market

lthough you could make
this salad with freshly shucked
corn, Lisa Battilana takes the extra
step of sauteing the corn to caramelize
the sugars and add a deeper dimension
to the salad. The market sells the dish
as a salad on greens; we found it madę
a great topping for grilled chicken, pork
or seafood such as salmon.

i tablespoon vegetable oil
i Vi cups fresh corn kernels (about 3 ears)
or frozen corn, thawed, blotted dr)'

1 garlic clove, minced
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained
and rinsed

1 cup peeled, diced ripe mango (about
1 large mango) or Vermont peaches
in their brief, glorious season

Vi cup finely diced red onion
Vi cup diced red beli pepper
2 Vi tablespoons fresh-squeezed limę
juice (from about 1 limę)

*/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Vi teaspoon ground cumin
Vi chipotle chile in adobo sauce,

minced (to yield about 3 A teaspoon,
add morę to taste as desired)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Heat the oil in a large nonstick
skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
corn to the skillet and cook, stirring
occasionally, about 6 minutes. (Give
frozen, thawed corn a couple morę
minutes.) Reduce heat to medium, add
the garlic and continue cooking another
5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until
the corn is lightly browned and the garlic
is fragrant but not burned. Place the
corn mixture in a large bowl and cool

Santa Fe Meets Yermont

Corn and Black Bean

70

vermont life

vermontlife.com

Whistling Man Schooner Co.

Lakę Champlain Sailing Cruises
aboard a classic Friendship Sloop.
Voted Best of New England in
2011 by Yankee Magazine.

■

Burlington, VT
(802) 598-6504 whistlingman.com

4* lakę champlain

ferries

Three ferry crossings on Lakę Champlain:
Grand Isle, VT - Plattsburgh, NY
Burlington, VT - Port Kent, NY
Charlotte, VT — Essex, NY

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Burlington, VT
(802) 864-9804 ferries.com

Bike rentals right on Burlingtons
world-class waterfront bike path.
Free trail maps. Friendly, helpful advice.
Mid-May thru mid-October.

■

Burlington, VT
(802) 652-2453

Iocalmotion.org/ programs/trailside

Join 2000 paddlers racing dragon boats at
the Lakę Champlain Dragon Boat Festival.

Supports Survivorship NO W
cancer wellness programs. August 5, 2012.

■

Burlington, VT
(802) 999-5478 ridethedragon.org

OPEN NOW only at ECHO, through Sept. 3, 2012

OUR BODY

THE UNIVERSE WITHIN

A fascinating, artful and educational exhibit of
actual human bodies and organs. Appropriate for all
ages (with parental guidance), this exhibił literally
goes "under the skin/' revealing the mysteries of
the human anatomy.

Co-hosted by the University of Vermont College of Medicine

Tickełs on sale NOW

877.324.6386 ext. 100

For morę information and special programming
dates visit: echovermont.org/ourbody

Child, student, senior and ECHO member
rates available.

sponsored by:

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COLLEGE OF MEDICINE

DGALGR.CS JV1

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SUMMER

Excitement

©rt :

Summer on
Burlington’s
Waterfront!
World-class"Our Body:

The Universe Within” exhibit at ECHO
Lakę Aąuarium 8C Science Center ...
rental bikes and touring tips from
Local Motion ... Lakę Champlain Ferries ...
sailing with Whistling Man Schooner ...
Waterfront Parks special events, including
Dragonheart Vermont/Lake Champlain
Dragon Boat Festival. Perfect!

vermontlife.com

summer 2012

7i

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69 Industrial Avenue, Middlebury
1-800-488-8437

Celebrate The
Boys Of Summer!

Our specialty bow ties,
neckties and coordinates for
men and boys are individually
handcrafted right here in
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To see our entire collection
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person, cali 1 - 800 - 488-8437
and ask for a free catalog or
visit us any time Online at
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slightly. To the large bowl, add the black
beans, mango, onion and beli pepper. In
a smali bowl, whisk together the limę
juice, salt, cumin and chipotle chile until
blended. Pour the dressing evenly over
the salad ingredients and sprinkle with
the cilantro. Toss to distribute. Serve
on greens as a salad or as a topping for
grilled meat or fish. Serves 4 to 6.

Notę: Chipotle chiles in adobo can
be found in the Mexican section of many
supermarkets and usually contain about
8 peppers. Storę the remainder in a clean
glass jar and refrigerate; they keep for
several months and are great added to
chili, beef stew or bean soups.

Corn Friłłers With Pesto
Sour Cream and
Heirloom Tomatoes

Adapted from chef Emily Wilkins,
Black Krim Tavern, Randolph
Pbotograph page 68.

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independent living and 16
residential care apartments.

Wes tview Mead ows

AT MONTPCLIER

Westview Meadows at Montpclier
171 Westview Meadows Rd., Montpelier, VT, (802) 223-1068

www.westviewmeadows.com

yermom

Winę Harvest

F E S T I V A L

September 2 ist - 23rd, 2012

A t Black Krim, Emily Wilkins
makes these fritters with roasted
corn kernels and local cornmeal and
serves them with a chipotle aioli and
queso fresco along a southwestern
theme. This version focuses on the classic
pairing of basil, corn and tomatoes for
something slightly different. They would
make a lovely appetizer, lunch or light
supper, and the fritters are delicious
with mapie syrup or honey-butter for
breakfast or brunch too.

FOR PESTO SOUR CREAM:

l A cup basil leaves, packed
5 to 8 scallions (depending on size),
white and light green parts finely
chopped to measure about
2 tablespoons

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped
roasted, unsalted peanuts
1 smali clove garlic, minced
Vi teaspoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed
lemon juice
l A cup olive oil

72

vermont life

vermontIife.com

Vi cup sour cream

FOR CORN FRITTERS:

i cup all-purpose flour
Vi cup fine or medium coarse-ground
cornmeal

i tablespoon baking soda

Vi teaspoon coarse salt
i egg, separated

1 cup milk (any fat level)

2 tablespoons melted unsalted
butter, slightly cooled

i cup fresh corn kernels (from
about 2 cobs), or frozen corn,
thawed and blotted dry
Vegetable oil and (optional)
butter to fry

First, make pesto sour cream:

In the bowl of a food processor or in
a blender, pulse together the basil,
scallions, peanuts, garlic, salt and lemon
juice until finely chopped, scraping
down sides of bowl as necessary
between pulses. With the motor
running, gradually pour in the oil until
the mixture is emulsified. Scrape down
the sides again, add the sour cream and
pulse briefly to combine. Transfer the
sauce to a bowl and chill until serving.

To make corn cakes: In a large
mixing bowl, whisk together the flour,
cornmeal, baking soda and salt. Whisk
the egg yolk and the milk into the
melted butter. Mix the yolk mixture
into dry ingredients. In a smali bowl,
using a whisk or hand-held mixer, beat
the egg white until soft peaks form.

Fold the egg white and the corn into
the batter just until combined. Set a
large heavy-bottomed saute pan over
medium-high beat and heat i tablespoon
vegetable oil and i tablespoon butter
(or all oil, if you prefer) until its hot
enough that a tiny drop of batter sizzles.
Reduce heat to medium and scoop 2
tablespoons of batter at a time into the
hot pan to make 2 -inch fritters. Fry like
pancakes, about 2 to 3 minutes a side,
Hipping when bubbles appear on top of

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• Inn 8c Restaurant • Property Tours

• Children\s Farmyard • Chcesemaking

• Special Events & Programs

Year-Round

• Welcome Center 8c Farm Storę

• Award-Winning Cheddar Chee.se

• Wałking Trails

Shklburnf. Farms is a 1,400-acre
workingfarnh nonprofit education center
and National Historie Landmark.

1611 Harbor Road • Shelburne, VT
www.shelburnefarms.org • 802-985-8686

Custom Designed House & Barn Timber Frames
Authentically joined in the Yermont Tradition

LIBERTY

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From the circular design, to the
Japanese soaking tub, to the
roormsized master shower,
everything in this custom built
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even a meditation room tucked
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vermontlife.com

s u m m e r 2012

• 73

Vermont

Cheesemakers

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UNTIL JUNE 30 ($55 AFTER)

$45 PER TASTING SEMINAR
(FESTIVAL ENTRY
TICKET REOUIRED)

ADVANCE TICKET
SALES ONLY

• 2 Tasting Seminars

• 1 Cooking Show

• 1 Cheesemaking Demo

• Over 200 Cheeses
to Sample &
Purchase

• Over 40 Cheesemakers

• 20 Wineries & Breweries

• 20 Artisan Food Producers

PRESENTED BY

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the fritter. Repeat, adding oil and butter
as necessary to pan, until all the batter
is used up. Keep the cooked fritters
warm in a Iow oven, if desired. Serve the
fritters on your choice of greens, such as
arugula or mesclun mix, garnished with
assorted heirloom tomatoes, diced in
various sizes, and the pesto sour cream.
Makes about 24 2 -inch fritters, enough
to serve 4 to 6 as a main course.

Summer Cherry
Cornmeal Cobbler

Executive chef Richard Jarmusz
and Director of Nutrition Services
Dianę Imrie Fletcher Allen
Healthcare, Burlington

HIS RECIPE IS ADAPTED slightly

from Jarmusz and Imrie s 2011
book, “Cooking Close to Home: A Year
of Seasonal Recipes” (Chelsea Green
Publishing). Jarmusz says the cornmeal,
which he sources from Butterworks
Farm in Westfield, adds a slightly
nutty crunch to the cobbler topping
as well as a kiss of sweet corn flavor. It
pairs perfectly with sweet cherries as
originally written, but is also a great
match for a bumper crop of backyard
blueberries or late summer and early fali
blackberries.

* FACTORY STORĘ

Monday-Saturday 9-5 & Sunday 10-4

P.O. Box 612 • 51 Lower Main, East
Johnson, Vermont 05656

Toll Free: 1-877-635-WOOL (9665)
Phone: 802-635-2271 • Fax: 802-635-7092

Email: woolens4u@pshift.com
www.johnsonwoolenmills.com

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When it comes to travel, Courtyard by
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space for up to 50.

To reserve your room, cali 800-388-7775,
or visit courtyard.com.

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Middlebury
309 Court St.
Middlebury, VT
T 802.388.7600 F 802.388.7602
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802-895-2838

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vermontlife.com

summer 2012

75

Yermont in
Black ŁWhite

Twelve spectacular
black-and-white prints
che Yermont landscapi

A thoughrful gift for
anyone who loves
Yermont.

-A Yermont life Calendar

.ermoni Fish & Wildlife Department Calendar 2013

jyermontlife

catalog.com

(800) 455-3399

yermont ife

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2013

vermont life

CALENDAR

V

V +J

1. Classic Wall
Calendar

Our most popular
calendar, with 13
exquisite photos and
plenty of room for notes
and appointments.
Wire-bound and
packaged in a ready-
to-mail box. 8 " x 10 Yi"
VLCWC013
$13.95

2. Engagement Book

Fifty-five color
photographs
capture Vermonts
changing seasons
in this attractive
and easy-to-use
weekly engagement
book. Wire-bound
and boxed.

5 5 / 8 " x 8 V 4 "

VLCEB013

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3. Desk Calendar

This standup calendar
sits right on your desk
for handy reference.

Thirteen colorfiil
Vermont photos.

4 X A" x 6 3 A"

VLCDK013

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4 . Vermont Weather
Calendar

Our largest format
calendar features a
seasonal photo for
each month, plus
interesting weather
statistics. 13" x 10 Yi
VLCWE013
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12 woodcut prints
by one of Vermont s
most popular artists.
10" x 10"

VLCSF013

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6. Pocket Calendar

This weekly calendar
features 12 spectacular
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ample space for

notes. Wire-bound
and compact.

3 7 /8" x 6 %"

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7 . Vermont Fish
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This handsome
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conservation of its
wildlife. Ali hunting
and fishing seasons
included. 8 " x 10 ¥t"
VLCFW013
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8 . Vermont in
Black & White

Twelve spectacular
black-and-white
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13" x 10 Vi
VLCBW013
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- - —--—

2013

yermont ii

FOR CHERRY FILLING:

Butter for pan
5 cups fresh sweet cherries
(or frozen, unthawed)

2 tablespoons mapie syrup
2 tablespoons whole wheat flour
(you may need a little morę if
your fruit is especially juicy)
i tablespoon black currant liqueur
(optional)

FOR THE COBBLER TOPPING:

Vi cup albpurpose flour
l A cup whole wheat flour
Vi cup fine or medium coarse-ground
cornmeal

i tablespoon white sugar

1 tablespoon mapie sugar
(or brown sugar)

2 teaspoons baking powder
Vi teaspoon baking soda

% teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter, softened
3 /4 cup buttermilk
i teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Lightly
grease a 2 - to 3 -quart baking pan. In a
medium bowl mix together the cherries,
mapie syrup, whole wheat flour and liqueur
if using. (You can also mix this right in the
baking pan.) Spread the cherry biling out
evenly in the greased pan.

To prepare the cobbler topping,
combine the albpurpose and whole
wheat flours, cornmeal, white and mapie
sugars, baking powder, baking soda
and salt in a large bowl. Mix together
with a fork. Cut the butter into the dry
ingredients. Add the buttermilk and
vanilla extract to the flour mixture, and
mix lightly to form the dough.

Drop spoonfuls of the dough onto
the cherries, spreading it to cover as much
as possible but dont worry if a little fruit
peeks through. Bakę for 35 to 40 minutes
or until the cobbler topping is deep golden
brown. Al Iow to cool slightly before
serving warm with ice cream or whipped
cream as desired. Serves 8 .

A weekend
showcase of
VERMONT
WINES, FOODS
& ARTISANS

Winę Haryest

September 21-23,2012

A celebration of the ingenuity of
Vermont producers and
their unique, quality
produets.

5 S T i V A I

Set in the backdrop of Vermonfs glorious fali foliage, attendees will
discover and savor produets from Vermont yintners,
smali specialty~food producers, chefs, cheesemakers and artisans.

SATURDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 22

Join us at one of our elegant country inns or fine-
dining restaurants for a Vermont wine-pairing
dinner featuring Vermont wines and imaginatiye
menus. Reseryations reąuired.

Lodging Packages Available.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21,5 TO 7 PM

Winę Stroił in the historie yillage of Wilmington with a wine-tasting
seminar and cheese-pairing. Also included in the stroił of the yillage is
a soup contest sponsored by the valley’s inns & restaurants.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22,11 AM TO 5 PM
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23,11 AM TO 4 PM

Vermont Life Winę & Harvest Festival at Mount
Snów Resort in West Dover. Enjoy food, winę, crafts,
entertainment and demonstrations. Admission $12 for
adults includes commemorative winę glass and two
complimentary tastes; attendees under 21 are free.

vermontlife.com

sum mer 2012

77

one in 626,43 1

Leslie Schreiber:
Experiential trainer,

“six hats” thinker,
community volunteer

Pbotographed by
Caleb Kenna

A LIFE BUILT AROUND LEARNING,
outdoor adventure and community
service has led Leslie Schreiber to find
a home in Vermont, where she operates
Schreiber Training, an experiential
corporate training company. Schreiber s
work incorporates the“Six Thinking
Hats” method of communication and
is enhanced by a master s degree in
education from St. Michaels College and
time as a trainer with Outward Bound.
She has also served with the American
Red Cross, the Flynn Center for the
Performing Arts and the KeyBank
Yermont City Marathon.

VL: What is“Six Thinking Hats”?

LS: This is a parallel way of thinking
introduced by Dr. Edward de Bono.
When people are by themselves, in the
shower, on a walk, they do their best
thinking. In a meeting, there are all these
people, so how do you get the most out
of them? We miss so many good ideas
from introverts — you know they've
been thinking, thats what introverts do,
but they dont speak up in meetings.
With"Six Thinking Hats,” we work on
a problem from the approach of each
hat. For instance, we might start with
the black hat — all the downsides of a
problem. People write their thoughts on
sticky notes, and we put the notes up on
the board. We do that for each hat — red
for intuition, white for information. The
green hat is the most fun, because thats
for creative ideas. Everyone gets red dots
to vote on the best ideas, and that gives
us a visual representation of the groups
thinking. There is a time limit for each
hat. Using this technique can cut meeting
time by 50 percent.

VL: What happens during your
experiential training courses?

LS: Its hands on. Its not me talking
at you for eight hours. There is a lot of
self-reflection and self-assessment. Most
of my clients, such as Green Mountain
CofFee Roasters, Seventh Generation
and Gardener s Supply, are proactive.
They want to maintain and enhance
their culture. I'm not a mediator. I'm not
coming in when things are on fire.

VL: You were born and raised in New
Jersey. How did you discover Vermont?
LS: I came with AmeriCorps in 1994
and worked for the Vermont Anti-
Hunger Corps in the Rutland area, and
I fell in love with Vermont. My second
year of AmeriCorps, I worked in Los
Angeles, in the Compton and Watts
area. After L.A., I knew I would come
back to Vermont. I love the resilience of
the people. Theyre generous, genuine
people. If youre in the grocery linę,
and youre short a couple of bucks, the
guy behind you will say‘I got ya.’ I love

78

vermont Iife

vermontlife.com

the landscape, and being athletic, I like
that I can bike, swim, climb, ski in the
backwoods, run with my dog and just be
able to experience the outdoors.

VL: How does your connection to the
outdoors inform your corporate training?
LS: Working for Outward Bound
Professional, and on numerous ropes
courses, I recognized that engaging the
whole person is an excellent way to create
insight about ones performance. Some of
my realizations were in response to high
adventure, while others came from just
being playful and open with my peers.

VL: Many people work multiple jobs in
Vermont to piece it all together. Was that
your experience before you started your
own business?

LS: When I came back to Vermont I
was 24 , 25 , prime time for not knowing
what I was going to do with my life and
feeling pressure to figurę it out. I had a
number of ad hoc jobs. I was blowing
glass at Church and Mapie Glass Studio,
not successfully at all. I was a basketball
commissioner for Burlington Parks and
Rec, running the womens league. I was
also teaching CPR and First Aid for
the Red Cross. And I worked in guest
services for the Inn at Shelburne Farms.

I gave tours of the inn, and I was the fire-
keeper for the huge fireplace.

VL: How does volunteering fit into
your life?

LS: I learned the value of community
service early on, starting at about 13 when
I went to a Quaker high school in Pemv
sylvania. When you re a teenager, it can
be,'Me, me, me.' But I learned to be less
myopic and see that what I could do with
my time was: I could give. After Tropical
Storm Irene, there were about 200 of us;
we just showed up in Waterbury and
said/Here I am. Put me to work.' I went
door to door, offering to clean out peoples
basements. There was such an outpour-
ing of support. Thats Vermont #

Interviewed by Susan Reid

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vermontlife.com

summer 2012

79

yermont

Summer Visitors

By Castle Freeman Jr.

J ust in the middle of May, after the bloodroot
has come out along the roadsides and before the
lilacs bloom in the dooryards, the First hummingbirds
are seen on this hill. They are about as consistent as a
living thing can be who is not being paid to show up on
time; and I am always glad to see them, partly because
of - the entertainment they provide, partly because their
annual appearance assures me that the year has at last
properly turned toward summer.

The ruby-throated hummingbird — Vermont's
species — is one of the smali marvels of naturę. Its a kind
of matchbox Red Baron, a fighting, flying ace aviator out
of World War I, a tenth-of-an-ounce miracle of speed,
aerial agility and aggression. Last summer there were six
of them around the house. At least, I think there were:
Its hard to count birds that never hołd still.

If you have a nectar feeder, or simply a border of
bee balm, cosmos, łupinę, and the like, hummingbirds
will put on for you the best free air show in the North
Temperate Zonę. The bright little things seem to wake
up each morning in overdrive, and all day long they keep
the pedał on the floor. From first light to dusk, rain or
shine, they zoom in and out, singly, in pairs, in tandem.
They stall and pivot, they
hover and dive. They chase
one another, larger birds,
insects. No doubt much of
their activity is organized
around feeding, but that cant, I think, be the sole reason
for their manie evolutions. Surely that expenditure
of energy is far morę than is required to secure the
nourishment needed by such tiny creatures. Arent the
hummingbirds’ fulLthrottle aerobatics for morę than
mere survival? Of course they are. Consider: If you
could do what they do, if you could live and play in the
air as they do — well, wouldnt you?

Maybe its to be expected that the hummingbirds’
high level of performance does not go with a placid,
easygoing demeanor. These tiny birds seem to have
the temper of a wounded tiger. Excessively jealous of
their territory, quite unwilling to share, even with their
own kind, they are cross, defensive and pugnacious. If a
hummingbird were the size of, say, an eagle, we would all
have to live underground.

To go with its virtuosity and disposition, the
hummingbird has a paint job like a rock star s Cadillac,
a fłashy display of iridescent green and scarlet. Its not
the only highly colored bird in our woods, but it is the
most exotic. Of the 16 or so species of hummingbird
that occur in North America, all but the rubythroat
are concentrated in the West and the Mexican border
country. Hummingbirds are a tropical family. They
arrive in our State each May bringing with them the
scent of bougainvillea and jasmine, a strange, luxurious
savor of the warm South. Foreign as they are, their
sojourn in Vermont makes a parallel with the seasonal
comings and goings of certain members of our own
kind. Hummingbirds are, in their way, tourists.

T ourism in Vermont had its beginnings after
the Civil War, with farm families renting rooms
to people seeking relief from summer in the hot, smoky,
dirty, noisy industrial cities of the Northeast. By the
turn of the last century, local chambers of commerce
and other groups were actively promoting the healthful
qualities of their rural settings, not only to renters, but
to reereatiomminded shoppers for real estate. What
began casually, as a way for cash-
poor farmers to bring in a few honest
bucks, became, with the decline of
farming in the State, a major sector
of Vermont’s economy — the sector
that has, perhaps morę than any other, influenced the
States recent social and economic history, its landscape,
its destiny.

Few would claim that the hummingbird is implicated
in the destiny of States; but as a summer visitor, it has
its role to play, if not in the States revenues, then in
what might be called its emotional economy. Summer
visitors support morę than the retail market and the
grand list. For the permanent residents, they provide
instruction, aneedote and diversion. They bring the
habit, the experience of other scenes and other styles —
sometimes, as in the case of the hummingbird, far other.
Its a long winter in these parts, and summer is brief.
For the year-rounders, these far-fetched, hyperactive
transients are welcomed for their beauty and their energy,
and for the refreshment of their annual return. ^

Hummingbirds are,
in łheir way, tourists.

8o

• vermont life

vermontlife.com

Vermont is a
State of mind.

Experience the best of Vermont £ Green Mountain
Coffee® by visiting our Visitor Center and Cafe,

1 Rotarian Place, Waterbury, VT
WaterburyStation.com

Brcakfast Blend

MUKKi

At Green Mountain Coffee, we know how important it is
to have a moment to focus on what really matters. That’s
why we make delicious coffee worth savoring.

A REYELATION IN EVERY CUP

Olnl

GreenMountainCoffee.com

Hannaford

C\o<>o
+o \Xotfi6

r Paul Mazza's Fruits & Vegetables Vermont

Farming is hard work, but I love it - the smell of the dirt as you
turn it over in the spring - l’d miss it if I had to do anything else.”

-V ai/f Maz-zj

Vermont Hannaford locations

Barre, Bennington, Bradford, Brandon, Brattleb^B
Burlington - North Ave., Enosburg Falls, Essex
Junction, Middlebury, Milton, Morrisville, Rutland^J
S. Burlington - Dorset St., S. Burlington - Shelburne,
Road, St. Albans, Swanton, and Williston

hannaford.com/closetohome

Look for the Close to Home logo when
you shop - it's our way of letting you
know youYe supporting artisans and
farmers from your State.